01The feeling
Adventure on quiet roads
The Peloponnese is a big, mountainous peninsula with a low density of traffic away from the main highways. Here you trade the bike-café scene of the classic hotspots for something wilder: whole mornings on smooth-enough back roads, village kafeneia instead of espresso bars, and climbs that go on and on.
The headline act is the Taygetos range, whose highest peak, Profitis Ilias, reaches 2,404 m. The only road across it links Kalamata and Sparta through the Langada gorge – one of the great climbs of Greece. To the south, the Mani serves up stone tower villages and a coast road that dips in and out of tiny harbours. In the north-east, Nafplio is a gorgeous base for loops to ancient sites in the Argolid.
It is less “organised” than Spain – fewer bike shops, more improvisation – which is exactly the point.